Showing posts with label islands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label islands. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 18, 2018

Russian surprises and Georgia Island-hopping


Russia is a revelation. The cold war imbued most of us with images of a cold, dreary Moscow and Kremlin replete with intimidating concrete buildings, foreboding walls, bars and barbed wire.

In winter, the season without sun, it is definitely cold and the sky is gray, but the Kremlin, the Russian word for fortress? Bright, open, treed and landscaped with glorious gold-domed churches,


red brick walls anchored by almost whimsical green-topped towers and tourist-filled grounds.



Outside in Red Square?

A vast expanse facing the glamorous Gum's Department Store (Russians pronounce it Gooms) lit up in twinkling white lights.

At one end, a history museum


and at the other the fairy tale, dizzying domes and towers of St. Basil Cathedral. Lenin's Tomb is inconspicuously tucked away along the Kremlin wall between the two. Inviting, yes; intimidating, no.

It isn't all rosy. As a guide said, "We used to have money but nothing to buy. Now we have everything to buy but no money."

Crowds, even in October, can be crushing in museums like the Tretyakov, 



Unknown Lady, Ivan Kramskoy, 1883.
a compendium of Russian art,


Clock Egg, Faberge.
 and the Kremlin Armory housing the nation's treasures from court gowns to eight royal Faberge eggs.


The famous Metro is crowded, too, but glorious with its marble, mosaics, paintings and chandeliers.























Increasingly, the 16 million Muscovites have cars and at any given time most seem to be on the roads. The Bloomberg Report listed Moscow as the world's most congested city and I believe them.


Viking Ingvar was moored north of town and it took 45 to 60 minutes to drive the 5-10 miles in each day.


St. Petersburg is everything you expect and more. Peter the Great and his successors built one beautiful city and fortunately, the Communists realized its value soon enough that many of the buildings have been preserved. In the nearby palaces, the people themselves worked to hide, bury and protect the treasures from the ravages and scavenging of war.



The Hermitage,

 















 Catherine Palace 



































 and  

Peterhof Palace and Park


















are the must-sees for most Americans and they should be. Just don't expect to see it all.

Between crowds, Russians as well as tourists, there will be crowds and waits, not to mention the sheer magnitude of riches to be seen. It is said that it would take 12 years to spend one minute before each work on display at the Hermitage and that's just a small portion of its collection of 3 million objects.

There are many more objects of wonder to be seen in St. Petersburg.

Lilies of the Valley Easter Egg, 1898

From the elegant creations at the Faberge Museum to the many cathedrals, especially the Church of Our Saviour on Spilled Blood.


The food is good, too. I can personally recommend an excellent family restaurant (there's an outside playground for the kids), Teplo, with a satin-smooth stroganov and huge portions. For a fine dining experience, Tsar, offers a period decor, elegant presentation and excellent beet salad and chicken kiev. Ladies, don't miss the bathroom.

In between, cruising the Moscow Canal, Volga-Baltic Waterway, Lake Onega, Svir River, Lake Ladoga and Neva River visiting Uglich, Yaroslavl, Kuzino, Kizhi and Mandrogy is a look into smaller cities, tourist villages and dense forests of birch, hardwoods and evergreens.

Try a pre-tour/post tour of Moscow and St. Petersburg if you can. It will be the best part of your trip. Western tourists are invariably greeted by friendly locals but the Russians make it a point to have you leave knowing they personally love the American people. It's the systems that don't get along.

Georgia Island hopping.

Earlier this month I revisited our across-the-border neighbors Little St. Simons and Jekyll Islands. 

Little St. Simons Island, reached by boat from St. Simons Island, is a unique experience.

The Lodge was built in 1917, cottages and the large pool came later.

The newest two feature four en suite bedrooms around a large living area with fireplace and wet bar plus screened porch and open deck.

Explore the beaches,
pristine maritime forests,

pine highlands, marshes, eagles,
ducks, spoonbills, wood storks, egrets and cranes by day, with or without a guide. Bicycle, fish, hike, kayak, swim, go for a picnic, learn about the organic garden or idle away.

After wine and dinner with fellow guests -  occupancy is a max of 32 - go for an owl prowl, learn more about the environment or island history from a naturalist's presentation or chat, play card and board or read a book by your fireplace.

Nightly rates for a two-night minimum range from $450-$700 per double depending on time of year and accommodations, plus 18 percent service fee and applicable taxes. That includes everything during your stay on this 11,000-acre island:  lodging, three meals a day and snacks, soft drinks, beer and wine, all island activities including guided Naturalist excursions and use of all recreational gear (bikes, boats, kayaks, fishing equipment) as well as transfers to and from the island.

You also will have sun block, bug spray, water bottles and the use of umbrellas and slickers. It is the nearest thing to a pure escape you are likely to find.

Meantime at Jekyll Island, by day Driftwood Beach is as spectacular as ever.

Come darkness, the Christmas lights are up in the historic quarter.

The live oak limbs are like overgrown tendrils of white light,

the Christmas tree is a fat mass of color

and you can almost smell the period wreaths and swags on the "cottages."


 The # Westin Jekyll Island offers an cool, oceanfront contemporary vibe with rates of $179-$229 a night through Dec. 29.


The Jekyll Island Club is filled with echoes of nostalgia and days of yore and offers an island exploration package: island club or island cottages accommodations for $169 a night or Ocean Club for $249 a night plus a free half-day bicycle rental.

Monday, August 31, 2015

Cambodia and Vietnam the AmaDara Way

Cruising the Mekong River on AmaDara

AmaDara
If you want to feel incredibly privileged and fortunate, see a third world country on a first class river ship. AmaDara, the largest and newest ship plying the Mekong River, made her inaugural cruise in August and I was there for the experience.

AmaWaterways had just been named Best River Cruise Line by Virtuoso and AmaDara enhances that reputation. Cruises on AmaDara start at $4,959 per person.

The experience began on land with a stay at the exotic Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf and Spa Resort in Siem Reap, Cambodia to see Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat, what are left of the glories of the Khmer empire when much of this area of Asia was known as Campuchia.

Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom, with a variety of temples and beautifully carved walls, is most everyone's favorite but its smaller spaces can become claustrophobic when the hordes of tourists descend every day.






















Angkor Wat, larger and better preserved (its royal builder insisted on a finer grade of limestone), absorbs the hordes and only seems crowded for the sunrise, when everyone wants the same view of reflections from across the lake the massive temple faces.



 Angkor Wat



Both are impressive and convey the melancholy of lost grandeur.










Floating village in Cambodia
Life on the Mekong River
We were welcomed to AmaDara by a local band, Cambodian lion dancers, traditional dancers, captain and crew and AmaWaterways' owners and board of directors. Cabins are spacious, come with two balconies and are well-equipped. Public spaces are comfortable and airy.

Residents' transportation to and from Evergreen Island in Vietnam.
Every day we had choices of excursions to decidedly non-touristy locales each of which added insight to history, culture and way of life of its residents. Unlike large cruise ships, AmaDara has no photographer in your face trying to market photos or a shopping director steering you to "preferred" shopping.

Buddhist monks at prayer, Oudong, Cambodia.
Surprises are an AmaWaterways tradition and we had some doozies: permission to photograph or tape Buddhist monks at prayer, encounters with survivors of the infamous Killing Fields and rides on an ox cart. On board, we were treated to young dancers, seasoned musicians performing on traditional instruments, cooking demonstrations and staff talent shows.

Appetizers were always creative.
Three times a day we were offered inventive Western and local dishes, five-course lunches and dinners, both with fine wines and frequent cocktail parties. Pho Ba for breakfast became a favorite.

City Hall, SaIgon
By the time we reached Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City as everyone but its residents call it, we were truly an AmaDara family. After a city tour we went out own ways, shopping, touring, relaxing.

Dinner at Quan Bui.
If you ever find yourself here, don't miss a meal at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza's Mezz restaurant, an amazingly comprehensive buffet of Western, Asian and International cuisine stations, or Quan Bui, a gustatory revelation of Vietnamese cuisine.

Cambodian girl gets your attention with her tarantula in hopes you will buy some bananas.
We all took home suitcases full for goodies but lasting longer will be the respect and admiration for the people who smile despite not always having enough to eat and are working hard to improve themselves and their countries.

Note: For a more thorough account of the cruise, go to All Things Cruise  and look for AmaDara.

Italian Deal

How about $479 for nine nights in Italy?
Three nights' accommodations Rome at the Hotel Buenos Aires, three nights in Florence at the Corona d'Italia and three nights in Venice at the Malibran or Santa Chiara plus daily breakfast, high speed train tickets, free pizza and gelato in Rome and Florence and and a tour of Murano in Venice. Oh, and one sight-seeing tour.

Available November 1 to December 20, 2015 and does not include air or local hotel taxes.

Upgrades available, natch, at  www.tourcrafters.it, “Deal of the Week.”   For reservations, call TourCrafters  toll-free  at  1-800-ITALY95.